NORTH SULAWESI
SULAWESI, Indonesia's fourth largest island, splays like a drunken spider on the seas between Borneo and Malukku. The long narrow arm of the mountainous northern peninsula contributes most to the island's contorted shape. The province of North Sulawesi occupies the majority of this strikingly beautiful peninsula and accounts for 13% of Sulawesi's 159,000 sqkm of land area.

The island's physical beauty, with its forested mountains and stunning coral reefs, is surpassed only by its intriguing biology. Sulawesi is the largest and most central island of Wallacea, a unique region of the world where plants and animals from Asia and Australia mix. Here we find Asian monkeys sharing the forests with cuscus, pouched mammals of Australian origin. Throw in peculiar species such as the Babirusa, or "deer-pig", with tusks that curl upward through the snout and the maleo, a chicken-sized bird that incubates large eggs in hot volcanic soils, and we have a queer and unique mix.

"Wallace's Line" refers to the remarkable change in wildlife that takes place east of a line drawn between Bali and Lombok and between Borneo and Sulawesi. Many characteristic Asian animals like the great forest cats terminate their ranges on the west side of this line. Both the geographic region and the line are named for the famous English naturalist, Alfred Russel Wallace, who traveled to Sulawesi in the late 1850s. Wallace was the first to write about the unusual characteristics of the region's wildlife in his still fresh and insightful book The Malay Archipelago. A contemporary of Charles Darwin, Wallace independently and simultaneously developed the theory of evolution, his ideas were stimulated by what he encountered during his extensive travels in Indonesia. Wallace is considered the father of biogeography, the study of the geographical distribution of plants and animals. Although North Sulawesi is very different today than when Wallace first stepped ashore, it still holds much of the fascination that captivated naturalists almost 150 years ago.

The Bunaken National Marine Park was formally established in 1991 and is among the first of Indonesia's growing system of marine parks. The park covers a total surface area of 89,065 hectares, 97% of which is overlain by sparkling clear, warm tropical water. The remaining 3% of the park is terrestrial, including the five islands of Bunaken, Manado Tua, Mantehage, Nain and Siladen. Although each of these islands has a special character, it is the aquatic ecosystem that attracts most naturalists.

The waters of Bunaken National Marine Park are extremely deep (1566 m in Manado Bay), clear (up to 35-40 m visibility), refreshing in temperature (27-29 C) and harbor some of the highest levels of biodiversity in the world. Pick any of group of interest - corals, fish, echinoderms or sponges - and the number of families, genera or species is bound to be astonishingly high. For example, 7 of the 8 species of giant clams that occur in the world, occur in Bunaken. The park has around 70 genera of corals; compare this to a mere 10 in Hawaii. Although the exact number of fish species is unknown, it may be slightly higher than in the Philippines, where 2,500 species, or nearly 70% of all fish species known to the Indo-western Pacific, are found. Oceanic currents may explain, in part, why Bunaken National Marine Park is such a treasure trove of biodiversity. Northeasternly currents generally sweep through the park but abundant counter currents and gyros related to lunar cycles are believed to be a trap for free swimming larvae. This is particularly true on the south side of the crescent-shaped Bunaken Island, lying in the heart of the park. A snorkler or diver in the vicinity of Lekuan or Fukui may spot over 33 species of butterfly fish and numerous types of groupers, damsels, wrasses and gobies. The gobies, smallish fish with bulging eyes and modified fins that allow them to attach to hard surfaces, are the most diverse but least known group of fish in the park.
Biologists believe that the abundance of hard corals is crucial in maintaining the high levels of diversity in the park. Hard corals are the architects of the reefs, without them, numerous marine organisms would be homeless and hungry. Many species of fish are closely associated with particular types of corals (folious, branching, massives, etc.) for shelter and egg-laying. Others, like the enormous Bumphead Parrotfish, Balbometopon muricatum, are "coralivores" and depend on hard corals for their sustenance. Bony mouth parts fused into an impressive "beak" allow these gregarious fish to crunch corals like roasted peanuts.
Some 20,000 people live on the natural resources of Bunaken National Marine Park. Although there are inevitable conflicts between resource protection and use by people, the Indonesian government is taking a fairly unusual and pragmatic approach to park management. The idea is to promote wise resource use while preventing overexploitation. Local communities, government officials, dive resort operators, local nature groups, tourists and scientists have played an active role in developing exclusive zones for diving, wood collection, fishing and other forms of utilization. If successful, Bunaken Marine Park will stand as an important example of how Sulawesi, and the rest of Indonesia, can work to protect its natural resources.